Bikes are marvels of engineering. They have come a long way from the first bone cracking wooden contraptions [1]. A bit maintenance goes a long way and helps to keep a rider from having to call in a rescue.

Every Note Has an Exception

The above preventative maintenance-model represents a riding season here in Alberta. On the left, we get our bike out of storage and on the right is a season of riding and the need for a more thorough check of your bike. In between are things to do before each ride, every week, and then monthly.

These are only approximate times or distance guidelines. Someone who rides every day may need to complete Monthly Activities every Week. A fair-weather rider may be able to do the Monthly Activities every other Month. More preventative maintenance is not going to hurt but don’t be a slave to your bike either.

Every Ride – Air – Brake – Chain – Drop-Test (ABCD)

ABCD – Finding Recommended Air Pressure. Air and your tires are the start of maintenance. The recommended pressure is printed on the side of the tire. Depending on riding style, the rider, the conditions, etc. will determine the optimal pressure. The more combined weight of bike, rider and gear – the more tire will deform and the closer the rim will ride to the street.

On the same tire, a larger man would need more pressure than a petit lady. However, if the lady has gear – for example bike touring – then she will need more pressure. Ultimately, trying riding at different pressures and decide for yourself. Most important, don’t ride at too low a pressure as that may result in a pinch flat. While filling them, look at your tires. Check for worn treads, cracked rubber, etc. Worn tires have a higher chance of failure or puncture.

What surprises some novice cyclists is that there are two types of valves: Schrader and Presta. Schraders are the innies and are like the valve on a car tire. Presta have the mechanism encased in the valve stem keeping the components clean and safe. There is a third type, but Woods Dunlop valves are much less common in North America.

ABCD – Pumps & Tire Valves. A good quality floor pump have a built-in gauge so there is little risk of over inflating. These pumps can take both valve types or they come with an adapter. When you are putting the pump head on the valve, put it on straight to not damage the valve.

A hand pump is intended for the side of the road; because it moves a smaller volume of air, it could take a while to fill a tire. A compressor takes less time but there is a risk of over inflation.

ABCD – Brake Types. There are two types of brakes on most bikes: Rim and Disk. Rim-brakes grip the rim while a disk grips a rotor separate from the rim. Rim-brakes are found on entry level bikes and higher end bikes in which weight a consideration. Their stopping power is affected by debris on the rim as well as moisture and water. Disk brakes have more stopping power and are more common on mountain or fat bikes.

ABCD – Stiff, Squishy & Spongy. Pull both levers, make sure they don’t go all the way to the bar and get firm before the bar. A brake that ‘feels’ different is often an indicator of a more extensive problem and a good reason to fix it immediately or not go on that ride that day.

ABCD – Chain Details. The chain is how energy from the human gets to the back wheel; it has lots of moving parts, the better lubricated it is the less work you need to do. Do a visual and a quick touch test to check the chain. Running your hand along the chain, it should come off clean with a slight feel of lubrication; you want the Goldilocks of lubrication.

A good practice is to wipe the outside of the chain while pedaling backwards. This will remove grit and lubricant that has worked its way out of the chain.

ABCD – Drop Test. Drop the bike from a few inches in the air and listen. If you hear a ‘clanking’ it might be loose bolts, for example holding a water carrier, the headset, a broken spoke or the saddle. Tighten any loose bolts or nuts and re-drop the bike.

Every Week(ish)

The preventative maintenance model is additive, this means you do the ABCD’s before each ride and if you are putting on good distances, say 200 or more kilometres, then complete the weekly activities. If your bike has sat for the week then obviously don’t re-wash it just because it is a new week. Common sense trumps the model.

WEEKLY – Wash the Bike. Beyond common sense, how frequent you wash a bike is based on riding conditions but a clean bike is a happy bike. Benefits are that the bike will last longer and you will be able to see if there are any issues. This is particularly important in the beginning of the season when there may salt on roads. Gunk can cover up problems that might start small but which grow into a bigger problem.

Avoid high pressure water such as a car wash, the seals are not designed for this pressure; the high-pressure can force the grease out of a bearing. A garden hose is fine but avoid pointing the water stream toward a wheel hub, drive train, etc..

You can buy specialized bike-soap which is designed to interact with bike greases and oils but any kind of mild soap is fine. Try to avoid getting soap on the braking surfaces such as the pads or rotors as soap is a lubricant.

Washing bikes in Alberta can be tricky, particularly early or late in the season. A damp rag may remove some of the dirt, use a spray bottle or take it to a heated car wash but only use the low-pressure settings on their wash wands.

No matter where you wash it, allow the bike to dry thoroughly. Wipe the bike down with an old towel and let it sit in the sun to remove moisture or water.

WEEKLY – Lubricate the Chain. After washing your bike, be sure to lubricate key components including the chain; a dirty chain will wear the drive train out and make you work harder. The lubricant on the chain is sacrificial; it will either wear off or become contaminated so it is important to refresh it. To remove the grunge, use a chain cleaner and then wipe dry the chain. Apply a new layer of lubricant to the chain and wipe off the excess.

WEEKLY – Check for Broken Spokes. Washing the bike or a drop test may identify a broken or loose spoke. You can also test by squeezing the spokes all the way around the tire. Replacing a broken spoke involves removing the tire, the rim-liner and possibly the rear cassette. If you are not comfortable with this, take it your local bike shop. Don’t ride on a broken spoke; not only is it dangerous, it can deform the rim.

Every Month(ish)

Monthly – Preventative Maintenance. The point of an inspection is to find and fix problems before they become more major and costly. Use your eyes, ears and touch in the inspection – taste and smell are probably optional.

For example, look over the bike for corrosion or something that has changed. Every 200 hours of riding time, do a full inspection and adjustments to the bike. Components wear out; a frame may last decades but everything else has a lifespan. These are important skills to learn but if you are not comfortable, take it to a good bike shop.

MONTHLY – Brake Pads. We have been checking the brakes every week, checking the pads is a more detailed inspection. Hydraulic brakes are simpler to maintain. Whether rim or hydraulic, inspect the brake-pads. Replacing a pad is easier and cheaper than replacing a rim or a disk-brake-rotor.

MONTHLY – Wheel True. Bicycle rims ‘hang’ from metal spokes; as we hit pot holes the rim can become deformed. Truing is needed to keep the rim running straight; it reduces the chance of a rub and can extend the life of the rim. Truing involves tightening the spokes so the rim comes back into shape. This is a good skill to have and if you are nervous, practice on an old bike.

MONTHLY – Rust, Cables & Listen. We understand brake pad wearing because we interact with them every time we stop. A wobble in a wheel may become very obvious very fast if you hear the dread ‘rim-rub’. Other elements of a bike are less obvious: chains, rear-cassettes, chain rings, derailleurs, handle bar tape, cables, and the frame – these wear or degrade with use or because of the elements.

A good way to check on the condition of things like bearings, is to simply turn the wheels and handlebars and listen – you should not hear anything. You will want these parts to moving freely; you should not hear any grinding or sticking.

Periodically inspect the brake and shifting cables. You are looking for damage to the housing or kinks. In some bikes, the cables may run through the frame; this both protects them and makes the more difficult to examine.

Damage can be caused by moisture, falls, improper storage, etc. Replacing a brake or shifting cable is not complex but most riders leave it to a bike shop because of the adjustments required.

About Every 2,000km

2,000km is about one season’s worth of riding for a better than casual rider. Like the other maintenance activities, do the following more or less frequently based on your riding style. For those with multiple bikes, estimating this distance can be more challenging.

YEARLY – Maintain the brake system. In addition to inspecting pads and cables, there are other components that require periodic maintenance. For example the cam mechanisms in rim-brakes or bleeding hydraulic brakes. Bleeding means releasing any air in the system because of the pumping action of braking.

YEARLY – Chain length and wear. Wear is a function of the quality of the chain, the condition of the components it was installed on, ride-conditions, riding style (how much torque being applied), maintenance, etc.. A chain will last about 1,500 to 2,000 kilometres, or one to two riding seasons. Chains are cheap as compared to a worn cassette or chain rings. One cassette can generally take 2-3 chains, fewer if the chain is worn.

Beyond the cost of replacing parts, as a chain wears it gets sloppier less energy is transferred. Shifting is improved with a fresh chain and a drive train that is not worn.

Chain wear is checked by measuring how long the chain is; chains stretch with use. This wear is not visible to the naked eye and the wear is not consistent across the entire chain – therefore either buy a chain wear checker or take it to your bike shop who will have this tool.

Putting it All Together

This is a lot of information and it can seem daunting to someone just starting to ride. The trick is start with the “Every Ride activities”. Add the Weekly and Monthly as you get more comfortable working on the bike. Establish a relationship with your bike shop so the mechanics get familiar with your ride. Doing so hopefully you means you won’t be stranded on the side of the road…

Notes and References

1. This first contraption had a few different names including a hobby-horse. Interestingly, a child’s first bike bears a striking resemblance to this invention now 200+ years old! https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_the_bicycle.