FeCT – 2018-08-12 a Ride Too Far

The is the third leg of riding about 500km of the Iron Curtain Trail or FeCT.

A Ride too Far Austria/Czech/Hungry – (60km)

Date: August 12, 2018
Starting Point (via): Marchegg Bahnhof
Weather Sunny, warm to hot and moderate to moderate north becoming south winds.
Route: South from Marchegg picking up the FeCT.  Through Bratislava and exiting the trail at Mönchhof (98km total ride, 78km without re-traces and 72 km FeCT riding).

This was supposed to be a simple ride.  We picked up the trail where I had left it a few weeks ago, through Bratislava and zig zags down to a convenient railway station allowing for a good ride pick up later on… that was the plan.  Instead it became a comedy of errors of route finding, construction detours, poor signage, a bit of bushwhacking, missed trains and some generous albeit drunk Austrians.  All in all a good day.

Bratislava – Where the F*CK is the Trail

I picked up the trail after a short 6km leg from Marchegg to the Friendship bridge.The route was good all the way into Bratislava.  Some of the walking trails showing their age being overgrown or somewhat broken.  As a warning Iron Curtain Trail signage in Bratislava is at best spotty, is hopefully not missing and at worst confusing and contradictory.

Getting to the first bridge that crossed the Danube presented our first mystery relating to signage.  The route involved going far back toward the bridge proper and take a ramp up to the pedestrian walks below the deck and on the sides of the bridge.  Clear signage to get you through a dark parking lot, nope.  Maybe a few clues spray painted on the pavement, nope.  And thus our first route finding fiasco had us trying to get up to the car deck where we discovered not pedestrian access.

Once across the bridge, the routing out of Bratislava consisted of a single sign directing us with vague ‘somewhere in that general direction’ accuracy.  Needless to say, bring a VERY good map to Bratislava, take it VERY slow and watch carefully and either a GPS or a Slovak enable smart phone are good additions as well.

Okay Signage and a Shark Tooth Border

The Hungarian/Austrian/Slovak borders south of Bratislava are a series of jagged saw tooth projections into each others territories.  Given that this border was heavily fortified, it must have taken enormous manpower given the elongations the border contours would have caused – which of course is exactly why the Hungarians opened the border because they could not afford to fix the then aging infrastructure.

Once again signage is okay to non-existence so be prepared to do a bit of route finding along the way.  Say hello to the occasional Austrian soldier who is keeping vigil because of the recent waves of migration from the eastern countries.  Of course one of the joys of route finding is being completely off the grid.  That happened in one leg when we ended up ‘bush whacking’ over a fairly overgrown trail and then enjoyed a few km of gravel roads until we could pick up a hard top surface riding into our final destination, Mönchhof.

A Missed Train and Friendly Austrians

From Mönchhof we thought we would enjoy a beer and meal in Neusiedler See (lake).  Alas we got off at the wrong station which may be just as well as there does not seem to be much in the way of services.  Nevertheless found cold beer and a passable Chinese supper at another train station.  As we were leaving, some nearby Austrians invited us for a drink –  a nice hospitable gesture – that caused us to miss our train by about 30 seconds.  Little did we know that next train just happened to be not an hour later but a full two hours later.

So, an eventful ride that was about 20km longer than intended marked by lots of route finding, generous invitations, missing signs and a very strange train schedule!

60km of the FeCT. Map courtesy of bikemap.net.

Route map (purged of all the bits where we circled around lost).

A Few Pics

The trusty steed at the Devin memorial

These guys were feeding bread crumbs to the Carp in the water. Those are not rapids but were instead a few hundred large carp fighting for the food.

The Sea can in the distance where for the soldiers monitoring this remote out post. Note the deer just to the left of the road.

Tri-corner where Austria, Slovakia and Hungry meet. I was Austrian and Gift (right) was feeling a bit more Hungari(an)

The Score!

Date Distance Name Impressions/Comments
2018-07-15 66 km Retz to Laa A great section with lots of things to see.
2018-08-05 60km Laa to Hohenau (almost) Rolling hills, lots of rural-ness.
2018-08-14 10 km Bernhardsthal to Hohenau am March A stub ride to finish the gap.
2018-07-15 52.7 km Hohenau to Friendship Bridge Green and very flat; accessible from Vienna.
2018-08-12 72 Friendship Bridge to Mönchhof Bring a good map and plan to route find!

 

FeCT 2018-07-21 – Wien Viertel with a touch of Czech

The is the second leg of riding about 500km of the Iron Curtain Trail or FeCT.  The first blog, So it Begins, included an overview of the trail but let’s right to the ride.

Wien Viertel with a Touch of Czech – Retz to Laa (53km)

Date: July 21, 2018
Starting Point (via): Retz Bahnhof
Weather Partially cloudy, moderate to strong south winds.
Route: East from Retz with a small North jog into the Czech Republic (52km and all FeCT riding).

The section takes you through the Wien Viertel and includes lots of vistas, wine cellars, pretty little towns with a glimpse into the other side of the Czech border to make it interesting.  East-west is down hill with one moderate climb in the middle.  Trip notes:

  • The Austrian section is nearly 100% on trails or country roads.
  • Lots of zigs and zags so keep an eye out for signs but also carry a map (and either a GPS or google maps to complete the ensemble).
  • The Czech section is interesting by way of contrast but can be skipped if pressed for time or if the riders are not keen riding on the roads.
  • The Czech markers are fewer so extra attention is critical.
  • There is one sandy section otherwise in the Czech section.  If you skip the Czech jog north you can safely ride it all with a road bike.
  • Lots of services as you go through numerous towns.
  • Consider stopping for local wine and definitely enjoy the cellars that dot both sides of the route.

FeCT Retz to Laa

52km of the FeCT. Map courtesy of bikemap.net.

A Few Pics

Top-Left, Clockwise: Me at the top of the one climb, an anti-climatic border crossing in the Czech Republic, Austrian Cycling Route signs and two cyclists head west across the rural landscape.

The Score!

Date Distance Impressions/Comments
2018-07-21 52.7 km A great section with lots of things to see.
2018-07-15 66 km Green and very flat; accessible from Vienna.

FeCT 2018-07-15 – And so it begins…

Goals are like thinking about where you want to go for dinner tonight. A good destination to walk toward until you pass something better. So, here is my goal – I want to ride at ~500km of the Iron Curtain Trail or FeCT.

The FeCT runs from the Arctic to the Black Sea along the former borders of the Iron Curtain.  At 4,127km long, it is not my intent to ride the whole thing… this year… but instead the sections that are reasonably accessible by train from Vienna.  I might do a few longer trips in Fall if weekends and work permit, but for the moment, 500km is a nice round number.

Ohhh, here are my rules for myself.  KM only count if they are on the trail and doing a section twice does not double the distance.  I will attempt to do a blog to remember the ride, make some notes in case I go back (or someone stumbles on this via Google).  Finally, I also get to changes these rules at my whim.

Full Route of the Iron Curtain Trail (www.ironcurtaintrail.eu – All rights reserved)

And So It Begins – Hohenau to Devinska Nova Ves (66km)

Date: July 15, 2018
Starting Point (via): Hohenau an der March via Wien Mittel
Weather Sunny, hot with strong North/North West Winds
Route: East from Hohenau and the south to the Friendship bridge returning to Wien via Marchegg Bahnhof (7km of non FeCT riding).

The section is definitely bucolic and only moderately busy (closer to Bratislav) and flat.  Trip notes:

  • About ~20% of the route is on roads but almost all are low traffic.
  • The trail section surface runs from smooth asphalt to rocks and broken pavement.
  • Because of the road surface, leave your road bike at home.  A hybrid is fine, a mountain bike with non-aggressive tires is perfect.
  • There are a few points along the way to buy a radler and fill your water bottle, nevertheless, plan to be self-sufficient.
  • There are some areas that are relatively remote and a way from the roads (e.g. 1-2km+); plan your travel accordingly (e.g. single women, etc.).
  • Once you leave Hohenau, there are only two bridges across the March at Angern an der March and the Friendship bridge.

The first 66km of the FeCT. Map courtesy of bikemap.net.

A Few Pics

An old guard-house at the border with a control gate and customs house.  Notice the decoy electrical box with a camera pointing toward Slovakia from the Austrian side.

Former Border Control just east of Hohenau.

And so it begins, at the Slovakia border.

Austrian / Slovak border.

Lots of Oil and Gas activity.  It could have been Alberta….

A derrick working the Slovak oil fields.

An abandoned bunker along the berm on the former Czechoslovakian side.

Abandoned bunker. There were at least 6 all spaced ~200M apart.

The Score!

Date Distance Impressions/Comments
2018-07-15 66 km Green and very flat; accessible from Vienna.